Train of thought

Central New Hampshire, October 2022

A path runs into the distance, covered in fallen autumn leaves. On either side of the path are autumn trees coloured green, orange, yellow and red. At the front of the image, across the path, is a railing barrier to help block the path. It is orange with yellow and black stripes.

I’m jogging through central New Hampshire along the old Northern Line of the now-defunct Boston and Maine, or B&M, Railroad. 

The tracks are long gone, and it’s now a tree-lined recreational trail for pedestrians and cyclists that in winter turns into a snowmobiling race course. 

It’s the peak of autumn and I imagine a train chugging through the tunnel of colourful foliage: reds, oranges, yellows, purples. Some late greens. Early browns.

I’m suddenly transported back to age eleven, and I’m buying a model train set at home in Melbourne, Australia.

The model train is funded by my maternal grandma Ruth, who has sent my sister Alex and me cash after her original parcel of presents disappears somewhere between the USA and Australia. To this day, we’re convinced a missing syllable on the address label – either by Ruth’s own hand or the holiday-season-blurred vision of a postal sorter – meant that some lucky Austrian child awoke that Christmas to a battered United States Postal Service box of eclectic treats and curiosities uniquely assembled in the way only my grandma could.

The model train is inspired by a nostalgic image my mum describes of how, during childhood summers spent by a lake in the New Hampshire woods, her father Herb would wave down a train and hop on board for the trip south to work in Boston. 

It’s a place I know well, and as Herb is no longer alive to be quizzed on details, I easily paint images where the gaps exist: I imagine him walking to the tracks, dressed dapperly in a Brooks Brothers three-piece wool suit and bowtie, trench coat draped over an arm, morning paper folded into the pocket of his leather case, his burgundy leather dress shoes crunching on the greasy ballast as he hails the locomotive with a prolonged wave with his hat. 

A yellow sunset-lit cloud hangs over a metal railing from an abandoned train track.

Magically I find the exact B&M locomotive at the model train store in Melbourne. Who knew the American rail network could exist in such manicured 1:160 scale perfection, in Australia no less? The blue, black and white engine is a tiny window into an era I long to experience. 

The model train is being set up on the living room floor of my paternal grandparents, Hellmut and Gerti, on a cold, rainy and perfect-for-indoor-play kind of afternoon. The Turkish rug is rolled back and held in place with Hellmut’s timber chess table to expose glossy parquet squares where a three-metre length of tiny replica railway track runs.

Barely a centimetre wide, the metal rails and plastic sleepers start near the timber doors that hide the TV and liquor cabinet, gently wiggle halfway across the room and end abruptly near the dried porridge-textured couch.

I crouch over the track. As he used to do with my dad and his model train set, Hellmut kneels beside me. He’s wearing a dark green knitted jumper and gull-grey wool-polyester blend pleated pants. He must have a half-dozen sets; aside from a pair of increasingly faded blue jeans that eventually earn themselves fresh denim knee pads from my grandma’s sewing machine, he seems to wear them rain, hail, shine, gardening, dining – except for summer, when he replaces them with shorts of a similar fabric and palette.

The model train tracks don’t quite reach Gerti in the kitchen, where she and Alex prepare dinner: thin vegetable soup, defrosted and decanted from a reused plastic Jalna yogurt container, each bowl regimented with one or two carrot slices, a couple pieces of celery or broccoli, a sliver of onion, perhaps a rogue spiral pasta piece (always only one spiral), the tiny grey-blue remnant of a chicken vein from the homemade broth. Leftover sliced beef in a tomato sauce simmers in a ceramic bowl in the oven.

Alex and I love sleepovers at Hellmut and Gerti’s house. We eat some of our favourite foods and normally play with the Lego set, my dad and uncle’s childhood collection of cowboys, indians and farm animals, or the pre-threaded bobbins on my grandma’s sewing machine, which are especially fun to unravel when she’s not looking.

The model train captivates me this afternoon, however.

I twist the dial on the little electrical controller wired to the tracks. A half-second later I hear the zzoommhh of electricity. Hellmut gives a triumphant “oh ho!” and I grin as the perfect miniature locomotive and its four miniature carriages charge across the parquet floor, honeyed like autumn foliage. 

This is also where fragments of fictional and real events, places and people hitch themselves, like the couplings of the tiny carriages at my knees, into one false image. 

All four of my grandparents float together through this scene. I see Gerti and Alex rush in from the kitchen to watch. I see Herb hailing the train, right there in that Melbourne living room. I hear the crackle of the Cat Stevens vinyl my mum plays that morning at our own house, but it’s become a soundtrack for the entire day. I see Ruth posting the package to nowhere that inadvertently brings this entire scenario into being. 

It may be a false flag, but I like it. Because it’s the only time I see all four of my grandparents together in one association. In reality, while they’d individually met each other at different times, living as they did on opposite sides of the globe, they never all four gathered at the same moment.

I’m suddenly back jogging the full-scale version of my childhood memory. A handful of kilometres further along the trail, on a surviving piece of railway track, sits an actual B&M boxcar. 

Memories breathe. They’re malleable to our mood, our ageing, our desire, our imagination. For better or worse or neither, that’s how they live on. They may stretch the truth or recreate it. But for this particular trip down the rails of recollect, I’m all aboard.

A blue train box car sits on some tracks in front of a yellow and red abandoned train station and platform. The train has a big "B&M" logo painted on the side in white and black paint.

Slumpkin

Two orange pumpkins carved in snarling faces look ready to collapse with old age. They sit on a wooden bench.

October, every year

I’ve never quite clicked with the concept of Halloween, despite my half-American heritage.

Growing up in Australia in the 1980s, my sister and I, with three kids from next door, were early adopters: the only ones wandering the streets on 31 October. We’d haphazardly trip over our costumes: frayed bed sheets turned by Dad into painting drop-cloths turned by Mum into ghosts, a couple circles cut for eyes and a piece of string tied in a loose neck-belt to keep it from slipping off (which is probably now in breach of some kind of child safety law).

We’d be supremely lucky to score anything more interesting than an apple. Maybe a snack-sized packet of chips or a fun-sized Milky Bar, resignedly deducted from the school lunch of one of the definitely-not-trick-or-treating kids inside the household that made the mistake of answering the doorbell.

So it all seemed a bit anticlimactic, October after apple-filled October.

When I was about eight some friends brought us back a gummy candy hotdog and hamburger from a trip to America. After eating them I was violently ill, and, despite loving other gummies without hesitation, the mere thought of the hamburger and hot dog was enough to make me feel queasy into my 20s! 

It took a dozen years, a move to America and a housemate opening a party sized bag of gummy hamburgers on Halloween for the impending arrival of neighbourhood kids for me to decide to bite the proverbial burger and get over my nausea. I gorged on the things, and while I nearly recreated the vomitous incident that kickstarted the whole fanfare, my stomach and psyche were restored.

But my lukewarm perception of Halloween persisted. College didn’t help. Dressing up played a half-assed second fiddle to the sameness of getting drunk on watery “lite beer” over a game of beer pong: a typical weekend night, regardless of the festive season.

What I have always loved are the doorstep pumpkins. Some carved comically, some grotesquely, some an abstract place in between, some intact. A bright orange lamp post of sorts on at least every second property passing through residential America in October.

In Melbourne, my mum’s displayed them for years, well ahead of the times until now, when the costumed crowds on the streets on 31 October are much bigger and the stale but addictive packets of imported Candy Corn she serves finally have some takers, my nieces and nephews included.

My grandma in California used to scratch our names into the skin of homegrown baby pumpkins while still on the vine, so that, as they grew to full size and the knife marks scabbed over, our names would be etched into them for (com)posterity. They’re a sign and a colour of the season: Halloween. Autumn. Harvest. The softening of the sun as summer dissipates and winter looms.

This Halloween, the dial shifted slightly for me. Visiting family in Philadelphia, we hurriedly assembled costumes for a house party that night. We’d had the wherewithal to pack two 1980s power suit jackets (or as we call them, “our Julie Bishops” after the exacting fashion of Australia’s former foreign minister), and managed to get hold of contrasting cyan and magenta wigs that we nearly had to snatch from the hands of equally desperate last-minute costume shoppers at a pop-up Halloween market that, based on the state of its shelves, looked like it had already been attacked by zombies.

At the party, we were asked who we were dressed as, and without hesitation we looked at each other and said “Aussie business women”. People took our response at face value, while also believing when we said we were faking our Australian accents and actually were from just up the street in Philly. Acting careers never felt so easily within reach.

As we chatted with Shaggy and Velma from Scooby-Doo, John McEnroe, and Three-Hole Punch Jim from The Office (who was also mistaken for an incel and just someone on their way home from an office job), we snacked on gourmet candy sushi my cousin and I had whipped up that afternoon. They were loaded with rice crispy treats and the gummy goodness of fruit leather and Swedish fish. They were delicious. And as I flicked my fabulous pink Aussie business wig out of my eyes, I told my stomach everything would be ok.

Three rows of candy sushi in a pyramid shape.

Midnight

IMG_1124
Ke-chuh-ke-chuh.
Tires on tracks,
a nocturnal rhythm that echoes
just ahead at the crossroad
long after the tram has called it a night.
Closer though,
bluestone
flags a perilous route home,
a bump or less, a careless step,
and
fibrous ligaments may fray
as cheap wool, two ply, under only gentle tension.
The result another type of
urban sprawl?
Ke-chuh-ke-chuh.
Only midnight? Really?
Hurry home, the tires order,
hit the steel lids
between the tracks,
as if to keep them firmly closed to shadowy shapes
that may otherwise rise from the pipes below.
A side street away,
no traffic to slow me.
Just keep on stumbling the obstacle-burdened path.
Ke-chuh-ke-chuh.
Auditory companion in the hush-hush.
Done with drinks, with dancing,
I want toast,
burnt, scratchy claws against
the numb grain of my tongue.
To strip the stink of the strip,
disappearing behind,
ke-chuh-ke-chuh,
with every rubber rotation
and swaying stride.
Boozy breath,
sweet late-night treats—
tomatoes and defrosted doners—
shouldn’t be so generously fragrant
in their sensory attack
after a dozen
rounds of ‘cheap’ three-fold-cha-ching sauv-blanc.
Several clicks
and glassy clinks
past sunset,
ke-chuh-ke-chuh,
no tram in sight but still
the depot calls one of us.
Ke-chuh-ke-chuh.
The rails ever-present,
markers on the darkened clock.

Trip advice

A five o’clock start to the morning is a struggle at the best of times; a laborious hurdle that my brain doth protest with contradictorily foggy vigour.

Throw in the prospect of exercise and it’s even less appealing.

Yet there I was, rejecting sleep’s powerful grip to leap from bed before the urban roosters could crow. I was off to my regular group fitness ‘boot camp’ session; only this would not be a regular morning commute.

Midway through my semiconscious schlep, I stumbled upon a rough diamond in the heart of Melbourne: an understated meeting spot that is, I’d soon discover, making quite a mark.

The location? A crossroads of sorts, where east meets west, only to leapfrog north and south in the same sitting: the intersection of Collins and Swanston streets. Or, to be precise, 30 metres east of the intersection in what may be considered ‘jaywalking’ territory, given a J(esse) was walking there at the time.

So at that moment, 5:35am, midway through both my commute and the darkened intersection, I happened upon the petite curiosity: yellow, plastic, gently domed and lying neatly between the traffic lane and the tram tracks, clear for the eye to see.

Perhaps the incline of the road threw me off, or my haste to satisfy a sadistic craving for early-bird pushups. Whatever the reason, morning wasn’t the only thing yet to dawn on me.

My feet stopped, and I was abruptly lifted through the crisp breeze, time momentarily snap-frozen in a Hollywood-esque vortex of limbo. But just as quickly the ‘defrost’ button activated.

And that’s how, with the grace of a 75-kilo feather, I found myself closely inspecting the construction skills of the City of Melbourne’s road engineers.

I didn’t quite nail my landing, the left knee kissing the concrete a nanosecond before the right. It didn’t seem to bother the Russian judge, however; his 9.7 was my strongest score of the competition. Perhaps he too was struggling to see under the muted egg-yolk glow of streetlamps squinting through the Plane trees overhead. But I’ll take what I can get.

Emoji street: The site of my discovery, which bears a striking resemblance to my expression immediately afterwards.

Emoji street: The site of my discovery, which bears a striking resemblance to my expression immediately afterwards.

Splayed across the tracks, limbs askew like a chicken on a Sunday rotisserie, I lay just beyond the leering headlights of a tram stopped across the deserted intersection, mercifully out of harm’s, and indignity’s, way.

The venue for my landing was derivative in that popular inner city Melbourne minimalist style: plenty of steel, strong lines, repetitious geometry and concrete (though yet to be polished and thus as gentle as the caress of a cheese grater). The cement surface was unforgiving—which I suppose is the sign of successful concrete installation—and a bold visual contrast to the curved plastic molding that marked the launch of my pre-dawn flight. Innocuous in look, abrasive in nature.

A coffee and several hours short of cognitive function, I nonetheless wasn’t about to roll over and take this lying down. Been there, done that.

I confronted the inanimate figure in yellow, who proved a shrewd, albeit silent, negotiator. We agreed to split ownership of the fault exactly down the middle, at 100 per cent blame to me.

And with that, my knee and ego well beaten, I continued on my way.

Ultimately, like the lukewarm response to a tepid latte, I have mixed feelings about this urban hotspot. I instead recommend its neighbour, just 30 metres down the street. Every two minutes a bright-eyed, blinking green man welcomes you graciously into his asphalted abode, or, turning to his complementary colour, tells you it’s a good time to stop and take in the surrounds in a far less dramatic fashion.

This review also currently features on TripAdvisor.