Train of thought

Central New Hampshire, October 2022

A path runs into the distance, covered in fallen autumn leaves. On either side of the path are autumn trees coloured green, orange, yellow and red. At the front of the image, across the path, is a railing barrier to help block the path. It is orange with yellow and black stripes.

I’m jogging through central New Hampshire along the old Northern Line of the now-defunct Boston and Maine, or B&M, Railroad. 

The tracks are long gone, and it’s now a tree-lined recreational trail for pedestrians and cyclists that in winter turns into a snowmobiling race course. 

It’s the peak of autumn and I imagine a train chugging through the tunnel of colourful foliage: reds, oranges, yellows, purples. Some late greens. Early browns.

I’m suddenly transported back to age eleven, and I’m buying a model train set at home in Melbourne, Australia.

The model train is funded by my maternal grandma Ruth, who has sent my sister Alex and me cash after her original parcel of presents disappears somewhere between the USA and Australia. To this day, we’re convinced a missing syllable on the address label – either by Ruth’s own hand or the holiday-season-blurred vision of a postal sorter – meant that some lucky Austrian child awoke that Christmas to a battered United States Postal Service box of eclectic treats and curiosities uniquely assembled in the way only my grandma could.

The model train is inspired by a nostalgic image my mum describes of how, during childhood summers spent by a lake in the New Hampshire woods, her father Herb would wave down a train and hop on board for the trip south to work in Boston. 

It’s a place I know well, and as Herb is no longer alive to be quizzed on details, I easily paint images where the gaps exist: I imagine him walking to the tracks, dressed dapperly in a Brooks Brothers three-piece wool suit and bowtie, trench coat draped over an arm, morning paper folded into the pocket of his leather case, his burgundy leather dress shoes crunching on the greasy ballast as he hails the locomotive with a prolonged wave with his hat. 

A yellow sunset-lit cloud hangs over a metal railing from an abandoned train track.

Magically I find the exact B&M locomotive at the model train store in Melbourne. Who knew the American rail network could exist in such manicured 1:160 scale perfection, in Australia no less? The blue, black and white engine is a tiny window into an era I long to experience. 

The model train is being set up on the living room floor of my paternal grandparents, Hellmut and Gerti, on a cold, rainy and perfect-for-indoor-play kind of afternoon. The Turkish rug is rolled back and held in place with Hellmut’s timber chess table to expose glossy parquet squares where a three-metre length of tiny replica railway track runs.

Barely a centimetre wide, the metal rails and plastic sleepers start near the timber doors that hide the TV and liquor cabinet, gently wiggle halfway across the room and end abruptly near the dried porridge-textured couch.

I crouch over the track. As he used to do with my dad and his model train set, Hellmut kneels beside me. He’s wearing a dark green knitted jumper and gull-grey wool-polyester blend pleated pants. He must have a half-dozen sets; aside from a pair of increasingly faded blue jeans that eventually earn themselves fresh denim knee pads from my grandma’s sewing machine, he seems to wear them rain, hail, shine, gardening, dining – except for summer, when he replaces them with shorts of a similar fabric and palette.

The model train tracks don’t quite reach Gerti in the kitchen, where she and Alex prepare dinner: thin vegetable soup, defrosted and decanted from a reused plastic Jalna yogurt container, each bowl regimented with one or two carrot slices, a couple pieces of celery or broccoli, a sliver of onion, perhaps a rogue spiral pasta piece (always only one spiral), the tiny grey-blue remnant of a chicken vein from the homemade broth. Leftover sliced beef in a tomato sauce simmers in a ceramic bowl in the oven.

Alex and I love sleepovers at Hellmut and Gerti’s house. We eat some of our favourite foods and normally play with the Lego set, my dad and uncle’s childhood collection of cowboys, indians and farm animals, or the pre-threaded bobbins on my grandma’s sewing machine, which are especially fun to unravel when she’s not looking.

The model train captivates me this afternoon, however.

I twist the dial on the little electrical controller wired to the tracks. A half-second later I hear the zzoommhh of electricity. Hellmut gives a triumphant “oh ho!” and I grin as the perfect miniature locomotive and its four miniature carriages charge across the parquet floor, honeyed like autumn foliage. 

This is also where fragments of fictional and real events, places and people hitch themselves, like the couplings of the tiny carriages at my knees, into one false image. 

All four of my grandparents float together through this scene. I see Gerti and Alex rush in from the kitchen to watch. I see Herb hailing the train, right there in that Melbourne living room. I hear the crackle of the Cat Stevens vinyl my mum plays that morning at our own house, but it’s become a soundtrack for the entire day. I see Ruth posting the package to nowhere that inadvertently brings this entire scenario into being. 

It may be a false flag, but I like it. Because it’s the only time I see all four of my grandparents together in one association. In reality, while they’d individually met each other at different times, living as they did on opposite sides of the globe, they never all four gathered at the same moment.

I’m suddenly back jogging the full-scale version of my childhood memory. A handful of kilometres further along the trail, on a surviving piece of railway track, sits an actual B&M boxcar. 

Memories breathe. They’re malleable to our mood, our ageing, our desire, our imagination. For better or worse or neither, that’s how they live on. They may stretch the truth or recreate it. But for this particular trip down the rails of recollect, I’m all aboard.

A blue train box car sits on some tracks in front of a yellow and red abandoned train station and platform. The train has a big "B&M" logo painted on the side in white and black paint.

Watching what we eat

November, Boston

“Right sweetie pie, well it’s always very busy so let’s get there early. Can you look up what time it opens?” my 94-year-old grandmother Ruth implores over FaceTime as we plan our next lunch at her favourite Chinese spot in Cambridge, Massachusetts.

“11.15am, according to Google…that’s an odd opening time,” I reply to the top third of her head as she fiddles with something off screen.

“Well why don’t you come here at 10.30 and we can have a chat and drive over?”

My grandma is notoriously early to almost everything: appointments, flights, social events, sending birthday mail. Meals – a passionately shared devotion of ours – are no exception. It partly manifests through having her watch set 15 minutes fast, and over many years of practice I’ve learnt to adjust (and often skip breakfast). So the next morning I’m unsurprised when I enter her apartment at the allotted time and she’s dressed in her winter coat with her purse and tote bag perched next to her on the elegant mocha sofa.

“Well I think we should go now, don’t you?” she asks rhetorically, checking her watch as she stands up.

We park 10 minutes later across from the restaurant. It’s 10.45 by my watch, 11 by hers. I’m shocked to see a crowd of people gathered on the footpath in front of the restaurant. 

“Wow, you’re not kidding,” I tell her. Yet even with 30 minutes until opening, I’m reluctant to line up. We decide to kill some time by marking an errand off her list: dropping into the liquor store next door to restock on Noilly Prat Extra Dry Vermouth for her daily martini. Alas, the store doesn’t carry it, so we’re back onto the street a bare 3 minutes later: 10.47. 

Her only other errand is at the grocery store, but it’s something frozen and she wants to wait until after lunch. So we join the queue in front of the restaurant, prepared to stake our claim as soon as we can elbow our way in the door.

It doesn’t take me long to notice three things: The “Opening Hours” sign says “11.30am”, not “11.15am”. The restaurant is completely dark inside. And the entire “queue” of 10 other people waiting wear black and white checkered chef pants.

It’s the kitchen crew.

One of them cheerily tells us they’re waiting for the owner to arrive with the key and when he does we can come in from the cold to sit at a table, but we’ll have to wait for 30 minutes to order.

My stomach growls. My grandma instinctively edges closer to the door, despite our now prime position at the front of the line.

Once the door is open at 11.00 (my time) the following exchange takes place:
Waiter: “You can sit here.” <pointing to a two-seater>
Grandma: “I’d like that one, it’s bigger.” <pointing to a four-seater>
Waiter: “No, sit here.” <pointing to two-seater>
Grandma: “No, there please.” <pointing to four-seater>
Waiter: “No, here.” <more forcefully waving hand at the two-seater>
Me: “That’s fine, thank you.”
Grandma: “I really would prefer…” <turning to waiter>
Waiter: … <has walked off>

We sit – at the two-seater – and a moment later two menus appear in front of us. But my grandma is prepared. An avid menu collector over her lifetime, she reaches into her tote bag and produces her own copy of the restaurant’s menu, with “2017” and my local uncle and aunt’s names in green ink in her distinctive handwriting on the cover, followed by “2018” and another friend’s name inked in black below it. She opens the menu to reveal several dishes hand-marked with ticks, circles and other symbols. This is not unfamiliar to me but still makes me laugh. So with our meal already decided, we don’t need to pass the remaining 26 minutes until the kitchen opens by reading the menu; we settle into relaxed conversation instead.

Our food comes and it’s a lovely meal. The waiter even brings my grandma her own full bowl of hot and sour soup when she requests an empty bowl for a sample of mine. She’s a curious foodie and an infamous food sharer: it’s obligatory to order extra dishes that often end up on her fellow diners’ plates or in a takeaway box because she wants to try a bit of everything.

Midway through our meal, my grandma waves the waiter over:
Grandma: “You used to have booths here. What happened to them?”
Waiter: “You want to move to a booth?”
Grandma: “No, I want to know what happened to the booths. I’ve come here for many years and they used to run along that wall.”
Waiter: “You want a booth?”
Grandma: “No. What. Happened. To. The. Booths?”
Waiter: Throws hands in the air in exasperation.
Grandma: Throws hands in the air in exasperation.

The waiter makes a beeline for a table at the very back of the restaurant – coincidentally far away, I am sure – and begins to trim the ends off a towering mountain of green beans using a pair of red handled scissors.

We continue to chat as we finish our meal. Or rather, what we can manage to eat. For though I share my grandma’s infinite curiosity for food, my stomach has started to follow hers in losing its bottomlessness. So when we finally head out the door of the now-packed dining room at 12.30pm (by my watch), we’re armed not just with her menu, ready for its next annotation, but also with a bag of leftovers and satisfied smiles.

An enormous pile of green beans sits on a table. Two pairs of red-handled scissors lie on top, ready to snip the ends off the beans.